Simply Truffles by Patricia Wells

Author:Patricia Wells
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: HarperCollins

TRUFFLED SAINT-MARCELLIN

Ever since I began working with truffles in the early 1980s, this has been an annual standby. Saint-Marcellin is a deliciously creamy disk of raw cow’s milk cheese made in small dairies in France’s Dauphiné, and its faintly lactic flavor and softness pair perfectly with the crunch of the truffle. Be sure to chill the cheese well, to ensure even slicing. Other cheeses that can be prepared in the same way include Rocamadour, a goat’s milk cheese from the southwest of France; fresh Chavignol, a goat’s milk cheese from the Loire Valley; and fresh Pélardon, a goat’s milk cheese from Provence.

4 SERVINGS

EQUIPMENT: A small jar with a lid; a mandoline or a very sharp knife; unflavored dental floss or a very sharp knife; a baking sheet.

1 fresh black truffle (about 1 ounce; 30 g), cleaned (see Note)

4 disks Saint-Marcellin cow’s milk cheese, well chilled

4 slices Brioche, toasted, for serving

1. With a vegetable peeler, peel the truffle. Mince the truffle peelings, place them in the jar, and tighten the lid. Reserve the peelings for another use. With the mandoline or very sharp knife, cut the truffle into very thin slices. The truffle should yield about 20 slices.

2. With the dental floss or very sharp knife, carefully slice one of the cheeses in half at the equator, like a layer cake. Arrange about 5 truffle slices over the bottom half of the cheese. Replace the top half of the cheese. Wrap it securely in plastic wrap. Repeat for the remaining cheeses. Refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours to perfume the cheese with the truffles.

3. At serving time, arrange a rack in the oven about 3 inches (7.5 cm) from the heat source. Preheat the broiler.

4. Unwrap the cheeses and transfer them to the baking sheet. Place the baking sheet under the broiler. As soon as the cheese begins to melt—about 1 minute—remove from the oven. With a spatula, carefully transfer the cheeses to small individual salad plates. Serve immediately, with the toasted brioche.

WINE SUGGESTION: A young red Rhône wine is ideal here. A current favorite comes from our own winemaker, Yves Gras, whose light, fruit-forward Côtes du Rhône Les Quatre Terres—from four parcels in various villages, including Vacqueyras, Séguret, Roaix, and Rasteau—is primarily a blend of Grenache and Syrah.

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